THE ONE PERSON PARROT
Why Doesn’t My Parrot Like Anyone Else?
Parrots can make wonderful family pets, but in some instances parrot owners encounter a situation in which their parrot seems to favor only one person. When there are several people in the family, it is important to know how to teach your parrot to bond with others in the family as well. One of the most critical things to keep in mind is that when a parrot appears to be bonded with and only interacts with one family member, this type of behavior can sometimes lead to demonstrations of aggressive behavior toward others. Therefore, it is imperative for owners to be proactive and put a stop to this type of behavior before it escalates. If you do not take steps to nip this type of behavior in the bud when it first begins you may find yourself living with a parrot that nips, bites and screeches whenever anyone other than their favorite human approaches. Not only is this annoying, but it can also be somewhat dangerous; especially if you have children in the home.
Understanding the Elements of Bonding for a Parrot:
Bonding is one of the most desirable traits among any type of pets, parrots included. When a parrot bonds with only one person, they can often become very protective of that person. Not only can they become aggressive, but they can also become territorial as well. It should be kept in mind that in parrots bonding is really a type of instinct that is deeply ingrained. In the wild, almost all parrots establish long-term bonds with another parrot. These pair bonds are typically life-long. Pairs often spend significant amounts of time with their partner. Even in a very large flock it is often very easy to determine which birds have paired with one another by their physical interactions and close proximity to one another. As a result, this type of bonding is hardwired in most birds, even when they live in captivity. Bonding usually cannot be completely eliminated, but you can manage it.
The best way to avoid problems with bonding is by making sure your parrot is adequately socialized, especially while still young. Your parrot should be socialized with all members of the family and even persons who visit your home on a regular basis. You may still notice that your parrot seems somewhat closer to certain people in the family than others, but proper socialization will help to prevent him from developing behaviors that might be overly-protective.
If your parrot has already become bonded with just one person in the family, a good way to approach the problem is to begin teaching your bird some simple tricks or behaviors that do not require anyone to handle him. This makes it easier for others to cue the parrot and offer a treat, thus setting the stage to develop trust between them and the parrot. Your parrot will then begin to associate the other person with receiving a treat. Also, your parrot will be able to focus on the trick or the behavior rather than aggression.
Parrots can make wonderful family pets, but in some instances parrot owners encounter a situation in which their parrot seems to favor only one person. When there are several people in the family, it is important to know how to teach your parrot to bond with others in the family as well. One of the most critical things to keep in mind is that when a parrot appears to be bonded with and only interacts with one family member, this type of behavior can sometimes lead to demonstrations of aggressive behavior toward others. Therefore, it is imperative for owners to be proactive and put a stop to this type of behavior before it escalates. If you do not take steps to nip this type of behavior in the bud when it first begins you may find yourself living with a parrot that nips, bites and screeches whenever anyone other than their favorite human approaches. Not only is this annoying, but it can also be somewhat dangerous; especially if you have children in the home.
Understanding the Elements of Bonding for a Parrot:
Bonding is one of the most desirable traits among any type of pets, parrots included. When a parrot bonds with only one person, they can often become very protective of that person. Not only can they become aggressive, but they can also become territorial as well. It should be kept in mind that in parrots bonding is really a type of instinct that is deeply ingrained. In the wild, almost all parrots establish long-term bonds with another parrot. These pair bonds are typically life-long. Pairs often spend significant amounts of time with their partner. Even in a very large flock it is often very easy to determine which birds have paired with one another by their physical interactions and close proximity to one another. As a result, this type of bonding is hardwired in most birds, even when they live in captivity. Bonding usually cannot be completely eliminated, but you can manage it.
The best way to avoid problems with bonding is by making sure your parrot is adequately socialized, especially while still young. Your parrot should be socialized with all members of the family and even persons who visit your home on a regular basis. You may still notice that your parrot seems somewhat closer to certain people in the family than others, but proper socialization will help to prevent him from developing behaviors that might be overly-protective.
If your parrot has already become bonded with just one person in the family, a good way to approach the problem is to begin teaching your bird some simple tricks or behaviors that do not require anyone to handle him. This makes it easier for others to cue the parrot and offer a treat, thus setting the stage to develop trust between them and the parrot. Your parrot will then begin to associate the other person with receiving a treat. Also, your parrot will be able to focus on the trick or the behavior rather than aggression.
TEACHING YOUR PARROT TO WAVE
A verbal and visual cue for each trick you teach it keeps the pet bird on track in the beginning, but as soon as the bird learns the cues you are free to drop either one.
The verbal cue for this trick is to simply say “Wave.” Place your pet bird on a table, the floor or on a T-stand, and let him get used to being there. Practice having your bird get on and off your hand and to and from the T-stand to give you a chance to reward him and praise him for good behavior.
Hold your bird’s treat in your right hand and wiggle the fingers as in a small wave, and say “Wave.” Then put your left hand in front of the bird’s chest as though you were asking him to step onto it, but do not let him! The minute he starts to lift his left foot to step onto you, withdraw your left hand and praise him immediately. I use the word “Good.” Reward him at the same time with the treat in your right hand.
(You will be using this immediate praise and reward combination continually from now on, so I will refer to it as simply “P&R.”) You must offer your left hand here, because in a later trick, you will be asking your bird to place his right foot on your right hand in the same way.
Watch carefully for the minute your bird starts to raise his left foot and try to immediately P&R him. It won’t take him long to realize that “Hey, all I have to do is raise my left foot slightly, and I get all this attention as well as a treat?”
For some birds, this trick will take only 10 minutes to teach, for others maybe a while longer, but it is an easy first trick and worth teaching.
As soon as your bird seems to have the idea of raising the left foot to the cue, up the anti.
Wait with your P&R just a few seconds longer to see if he won’t try and lift his foot just a little higher. Do this each time you ask for the wave, and you will be surprised at how high he will lift his foot just to make sure you see it. Wait a few seconds longer and see if he will finally start to drop the foot. Immediately P&R. What you are working for is an up-and-down motion of his foot like a wave. He will quickly get the idea and you will soon have a genuine wave.
Your bird may add an innovative behavior (one the bird does on its own without training) like opening and closing the toes. Immediately reward innovations. Some of the innovative behaviors become the best tricks because they are so unique.
Stop the lesson when the bird has the idea. Don’t bore the bird with endless repetitions. Some people claim parrots have short attention spans. They don’t if you keep the lesson interesting. A lesson can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour and twice a day or twice a week — it is up to you. After the bird has mastered the first trick, move on to something else, but don’t have a playtime follow a lesson. Make the lesson itself be his special time with you.
The verbal cue for this trick is to simply say “Wave.” Place your pet bird on a table, the floor or on a T-stand, and let him get used to being there. Practice having your bird get on and off your hand and to and from the T-stand to give you a chance to reward him and praise him for good behavior.
Hold your bird’s treat in your right hand and wiggle the fingers as in a small wave, and say “Wave.” Then put your left hand in front of the bird’s chest as though you were asking him to step onto it, but do not let him! The minute he starts to lift his left foot to step onto you, withdraw your left hand and praise him immediately. I use the word “Good.” Reward him at the same time with the treat in your right hand.
(You will be using this immediate praise and reward combination continually from now on, so I will refer to it as simply “P&R.”) You must offer your left hand here, because in a later trick, you will be asking your bird to place his right foot on your right hand in the same way.
Watch carefully for the minute your bird starts to raise his left foot and try to immediately P&R him. It won’t take him long to realize that “Hey, all I have to do is raise my left foot slightly, and I get all this attention as well as a treat?”
For some birds, this trick will take only 10 minutes to teach, for others maybe a while longer, but it is an easy first trick and worth teaching.
As soon as your bird seems to have the idea of raising the left foot to the cue, up the anti.
Wait with your P&R just a few seconds longer to see if he won’t try and lift his foot just a little higher. Do this each time you ask for the wave, and you will be surprised at how high he will lift his foot just to make sure you see it. Wait a few seconds longer and see if he will finally start to drop the foot. Immediately P&R. What you are working for is an up-and-down motion of his foot like a wave. He will quickly get the idea and you will soon have a genuine wave.
Your bird may add an innovative behavior (one the bird does on its own without training) like opening and closing the toes. Immediately reward innovations. Some of the innovative behaviors become the best tricks because they are so unique.
Stop the lesson when the bird has the idea. Don’t bore the bird with endless repetitions. Some people claim parrots have short attention spans. They don’t if you keep the lesson interesting. A lesson can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour and twice a day or twice a week — it is up to you. After the bird has mastered the first trick, move on to something else, but don’t have a playtime follow a lesson. Make the lesson itself be his special time with you.
UNDERSTANDING AND CONTROLLING PARROT SCREAMING
Once a parrot begins a screaming habit, it can be quite difficult to break. For parrots, this type of habit is much like any habit that any human may develop. If you have ever dealt with trying to break your own bad habit, then you should be able to understand that it can be quite difficult for your bird. This is why, when it comes to controlling a screaming behavior, you must have patience. Keeping in mind that it will take time will make it much easier for you to be patient with your bird.
Why Is My Parrot Screaming?
To begin with, you must establish why your parrot is screaming. This will help you determine a plan of action to stop it. However, any bird that screams may scream for a totally different reason from another. You cannot deal with the bad habit without determining why the bad habit developed.
There are usually tell-tale signs of why your parrot screams. Usually, there is a certain action that sets it off. For example, your parrot may scream out of separation anxiety when you leave your home. Your parrot may scream out of fear. It could be that they scream because they know it will get a reaction from you or someone else in the house. There are many things that can lead to the development of this habit. Look for the things that may have lead to it and this will give you a better idea of how to take action.
Control the Screaming of Your Parrot:
Once you know the whys, you can adjust the hows. Depending on the reason for your parrot’s screaming habit, then you will need to handle the bad habit in different manners For example, if your parrot screams in response to loud sounds or frenetic action, then you need to provide the bird with a calm quiet environment. Chances are, this kind of reaction is a fear reaction. You need to address it by helping to avoid the thing that scares your bird.
If your parrot is screaming because it believes it will get a response from you, then you will have to let it know it will not get the response it wants. Whenever the parrot screams, do not give the bird the attention that it is trying to garner. It will not take very long for your bird to determine that it will not get the attention. Parrots are quite intelligent, and they can easily connect actions to reactions.
If your parrot is screaming out of separation anxiety, then you will need to take the time to slowly get it used to the idea of you being gone. You should not make a big deal of leaving in front of the parrot. You should also leave in a gradual manner, giving the bird attention, then sitting in the room without giving it attention and then slowly leaving the room.
A screaming behavior in a parrot is a habit much like a habit that any human may have. In order to get out of this habit, you will need to be patient and understanding.
Why Is My Parrot Screaming?
To begin with, you must establish why your parrot is screaming. This will help you determine a plan of action to stop it. However, any bird that screams may scream for a totally different reason from another. You cannot deal with the bad habit without determining why the bad habit developed.
There are usually tell-tale signs of why your parrot screams. Usually, there is a certain action that sets it off. For example, your parrot may scream out of separation anxiety when you leave your home. Your parrot may scream out of fear. It could be that they scream because they know it will get a reaction from you or someone else in the house. There are many things that can lead to the development of this habit. Look for the things that may have lead to it and this will give you a better idea of how to take action.
Control the Screaming of Your Parrot:
Once you know the whys, you can adjust the hows. Depending on the reason for your parrot’s screaming habit, then you will need to handle the bad habit in different manners For example, if your parrot screams in response to loud sounds or frenetic action, then you need to provide the bird with a calm quiet environment. Chances are, this kind of reaction is a fear reaction. You need to address it by helping to avoid the thing that scares your bird.
If your parrot is screaming because it believes it will get a response from you, then you will have to let it know it will not get the response it wants. Whenever the parrot screams, do not give the bird the attention that it is trying to garner. It will not take very long for your bird to determine that it will not get the attention. Parrots are quite intelligent, and they can easily connect actions to reactions.
If your parrot is screaming out of separation anxiety, then you will need to take the time to slowly get it used to the idea of you being gone. You should not make a big deal of leaving in front of the parrot. You should also leave in a gradual manner, giving the bird attention, then sitting in the room without giving it attention and then slowly leaving the room.
A screaming behavior in a parrot is a habit much like a habit that any human may have. In order to get out of this habit, you will need to be patient and understanding.
INTRODUCING A NEW PARROT TO AN EXISTING ONE
If you are already a parrot owner and you would like to introduce another bird to the home, then you will need to consider how you go about this quite carefully. Just like any other pet, a parrot could become jealous toward the new bird, especially if the new parrot is getting lots of attention. This would happen with any pet. However, due to the high intelligence level of parrots, they will experience this to a greater amount.
Your parrot may react to the new bird in a variety of ways. It could become aggravated toward you because it feels betrayed. It could become aggressive toward the new bird out of jealousy. It may interact completely fine with the new parrot. No matter what, you must be prepared for any reaction, and you must introduce the new parrot in the right way.
How Will My Parrot React to a New One?
One of the first things you should understand is that different species of parrots can react to a new bird in different ways. Some of the smaller birds tend to enjoy company better, and if you have a parakeet or a lovebird, you may find that introducing the new parrot will go over quite well. Many of the larger birds, like Macaws and African Greys may have a more negative reaction to a new parrot.
The key to making sure you can have a peaceful household and own two parrots is to respect each bird’s space. Do not insist that the birds be cage mates, especially in the beginning. It would be best to allow each bird its own cage for a while before placing them in the same cage. You can allow the birds to get acclimated to each other by placing the cages side by side. If the birds show aggression, then it would be best to separate them for a while.
The next thing you should remember is that you cannot play favorites. You need to spend an equal amount of time with each bird and make sure the other one sees this. Parrots are extremely intelligent, and they will notice if you play favorites. No matter what, be sure that you spend a fair amount of time with both of your parrots.
If you see stress related behavior, you will need to react quickly. Some parrots have a great deal of behavioral problems born out of stress, like feather plucking, screaming or biting. The moment that you recognize that your parrot is reacting out of stress, you will need to handle the situation very carefully. You can do this by removing the parrot from the stressful situation and place the bird in a calm, quiet environment away from the second bird. This will give the parrot some time to calm down and relax.
You can successfully own two parrots. You will just need to make sure that you handle the situation very carefully. You need to respect each bird, their personality and their intelligence. Give them time and space, and never try to force the birds to get along. Before long, you will find that the two parrots are able to get along well.
Your parrot may react to the new bird in a variety of ways. It could become aggravated toward you because it feels betrayed. It could become aggressive toward the new bird out of jealousy. It may interact completely fine with the new parrot. No matter what, you must be prepared for any reaction, and you must introduce the new parrot in the right way.
How Will My Parrot React to a New One?
One of the first things you should understand is that different species of parrots can react to a new bird in different ways. Some of the smaller birds tend to enjoy company better, and if you have a parakeet or a lovebird, you may find that introducing the new parrot will go over quite well. Many of the larger birds, like Macaws and African Greys may have a more negative reaction to a new parrot.
The key to making sure you can have a peaceful household and own two parrots is to respect each bird’s space. Do not insist that the birds be cage mates, especially in the beginning. It would be best to allow each bird its own cage for a while before placing them in the same cage. You can allow the birds to get acclimated to each other by placing the cages side by side. If the birds show aggression, then it would be best to separate them for a while.
The next thing you should remember is that you cannot play favorites. You need to spend an equal amount of time with each bird and make sure the other one sees this. Parrots are extremely intelligent, and they will notice if you play favorites. No matter what, be sure that you spend a fair amount of time with both of your parrots.
If you see stress related behavior, you will need to react quickly. Some parrots have a great deal of behavioral problems born out of stress, like feather plucking, screaming or biting. The moment that you recognize that your parrot is reacting out of stress, you will need to handle the situation very carefully. You can do this by removing the parrot from the stressful situation and place the bird in a calm, quiet environment away from the second bird. This will give the parrot some time to calm down and relax.
You can successfully own two parrots. You will just need to make sure that you handle the situation very carefully. You need to respect each bird, their personality and their intelligence. Give them time and space, and never try to force the birds to get along. Before long, you will find that the two parrots are able to get along well.
INTRODUCING A NEW BIRD TO YOUR FLOCK
Adding a new bird to your flock is not without its challenges and does require a substantial amount of work.
Five Steps to a SMOOTH Introduction
*House both birds in their own cages in the same room. This allows them to get to know each other from within their own comfortable territory.
*Attend to each bird separately. Provide separate play sessions for each bird.
*Treat your existing bird as the "alpha" bird. This will help him remain confident in his place in your flock and help combat jealousy. Greet him first, feed him first, and attend to him first. But be sure to give each bird equal amounts of your time, while reassuring your existing bird that he has not lost his place in the flock, or in your heart.
*Eventually allow the birds to exercise outside their cage at the same time. A new playstand Is great for this purpose, as it provides a "neutral" space for them to socialize and play together.
*Watch closely for signs of jealousy or incompatibility. Closely monitor both birds and be alert for pulling feathers, biting, screaming, lunging, and other signs of aggression. If these behaviors occur, separate the birds immediately. Self-mutilation is another sign that your bird may be struggling with jealousy or territorial issues.
Adding a new bird to your flock is a wonderful way to reduce loneliness and promote natural social behavior. But it is not without its challenges.
Five Steps to a SMOOTH Introduction
*House both birds in their own cages in the same room. This allows them to get to know each other from within their own comfortable territory.
*Attend to each bird separately. Provide separate play sessions for each bird.
*Treat your existing bird as the "alpha" bird. This will help him remain confident in his place in your flock and help combat jealousy. Greet him first, feed him first, and attend to him first. But be sure to give each bird equal amounts of your time, while reassuring your existing bird that he has not lost his place in the flock, or in your heart.
*Eventually allow the birds to exercise outside their cage at the same time. A new playstand Is great for this purpose, as it provides a "neutral" space for them to socialize and play together.
*Watch closely for signs of jealousy or incompatibility. Closely monitor both birds and be alert for pulling feathers, biting, screaming, lunging, and other signs of aggression. If these behaviors occur, separate the birds immediately. Self-mutilation is another sign that your bird may be struggling with jealousy or territorial issues.
Adding a new bird to your flock is a wonderful way to reduce loneliness and promote natural social behavior. But it is not without its challenges.
PLAYTIME WITH YOUR PARROT
One of the greatest things about owning a feathered companion is playing with them. This is a way to have fun and enjoy your bird to the fullest. Playtime does not have to be long periods of time but it should be done daily. Unlike a training session, this is a free for all and should be spontaneous. It is simply another opportunity for you to strengthen the bond between you and your parrot. It will also curb monotonous activity for your bird, which could lead to behavioral problems that often develop from bored parrots.
Parrots have often been compared to human toddlers intellectually. A parrot’s sense of play can certainly be associated to one. With that being said, just as a small child a parrot’s attention span can be short. You will notice they play with one favorite toy for a while only to move on to the next. This same reaction should be expected with when you are interactively playing with them as well. Parrots with continue to play throughout their lifetime. There are two types of play. They are passive and interactive.
Passive Play for Your Parrot:
Playing with your parrot allows time to form an important bond between you and your feathered companion. Let’s face it, our daily lives and responsibilities does not always allow for this precious time. However, passive play for your parrot is a wonderful way for each of you to engage in your own activities while sharing a close proximity with one another. The idea of passive play is to provide your parrot with security and physical closeness while it enjoys “doing its own thing”. In return you are able to go about your daily activities. Supply your bird with plenty of safe toys for your parrot to entertain himself with, replacing and rotating whenever needed.
Interactive Play for Your Parrot:
Interactive play is when you or a family member interacts with your parrot instead alongside it. It is a way to enjoy your bird without any pressures of training.
Interactive play can include:
Just be creative and find what is fun for you and your parrot. However, with both forms of play it is crucial to make sure you are in a safe environment for you and your bird. Do not push your bird beyond its limitations and always make sure to consider your parrot’s individual personality during this time. Remember play is supposed to be and should be fun; so enjoy!
Parrots have often been compared to human toddlers intellectually. A parrot’s sense of play can certainly be associated to one. With that being said, just as a small child a parrot’s attention span can be short. You will notice they play with one favorite toy for a while only to move on to the next. This same reaction should be expected with when you are interactively playing with them as well. Parrots with continue to play throughout their lifetime. There are two types of play. They are passive and interactive.
Passive Play for Your Parrot:
Playing with your parrot allows time to form an important bond between you and your feathered companion. Let’s face it, our daily lives and responsibilities does not always allow for this precious time. However, passive play for your parrot is a wonderful way for each of you to engage in your own activities while sharing a close proximity with one another. The idea of passive play is to provide your parrot with security and physical closeness while it enjoys “doing its own thing”. In return you are able to go about your daily activities. Supply your bird with plenty of safe toys for your parrot to entertain himself with, replacing and rotating whenever needed.
Interactive Play for Your Parrot:
Interactive play is when you or a family member interacts with your parrot instead alongside it. It is a way to enjoy your bird without any pressures of training.
Interactive play can include:
- Dancing
- Playing Tag
- Exercise
- Housework
- Playing Ball
- Peek a boo
Just be creative and find what is fun for you and your parrot. However, with both forms of play it is crucial to make sure you are in a safe environment for you and your bird. Do not push your bird beyond its limitations and always make sure to consider your parrot’s individual personality during this time. Remember play is supposed to be and should be fun; so enjoy!
THE PARROT HARNESS
THE FIRST TIME you saw a bird wearing a harness you probably thought, "Wow! What a great idea! But harnesses are not suited to every bird.
First, you need to look at the reasons why you want to use one. A properly used harness is a last-resort safety device worn to prevent an unexpected attempt to flee. A harness should not be a method of control. In fact, a bird should hardly be aware of its presence. Unfortunately, more often than not we see harnessed birds that are tugging at the end of the line or being pulled by their owners in different directions.
This it not the right way to use a harness. Although few people are willing to invest the time required, dogs, cats and even ferrets can be trained to walk comfortably by your side. Your bird should be trained to remain in your proximity, too. Rather than pulling on a harness line to control him, you should train him to stay put using positive reinforcement.But, there are times when we bird owners cannot predict when something is going to frighten our birds. This is when a harness earns its keep as a backup safety device.
We think of harnessed birds as ones that can fly. Clipping flight feathers has long been a common practice among bird owners. However, a trend is to allow birds to fledge and remain flighted for their entire lives. For some birds this can help prevent feather picking. (These birds seem to find the ends of the clipped feathers irritating.) Other birds seem more confident as a result of being allowed to fly. In general, flying can improve a bird's health by keeping it active and physically fit.
Clipped birds taken outdoors or other places can benefit from harnesses, too. It takes only a second for a clipped bird to startle and flutter off a hand or shoulder and into the path of an oncoming car or some other danger.
Whether your bird is fully flighted or clipped, it's natural to want a safe way to expose him to sun and fresh air, not to mention new people and places. Harnesses give birds an opportunity to engage in many types of experiences while at the same time reducing the risk.
Is your bird a harness candidate?
Pictures of birds happily wearing their harnesses makes it look so easy. But harnessing a bird is not as simple as it looks. First, you should ask yourself if your bird is a good candidate for harness training in the first place. Not all birds are.
Not surprisingly, the best candidates are birds that are comfortable with being touched all over. Young parrots that may have recently been weaned, the larger cockatoos and some macaws tend to be more open than other types of birds to touching beyond the head scratch.
If your bird does not fit into any of these categories, it does not mean he can't be trained to wear a harness. It does mean you probably will have to invest more time and patience into training him. For some people, it's just not worth the effort.
Many times people manage to harness their bird a few times, then the bird learns to detest the harness and either flees or displays aggressive behavior at the first sight of it. If this has happened to you, it probably means you weren't paying attention to your bird's signs of discomfort; you simply strapped him in the harness and expected him to get used to it.
Most birds don't respond very well to this training method. They bite at the harness, try to escape it or even squawk. The end result is a bird that fears the harness.
Even if your bird eventually learns to tolerate the harness, this "get-used-to-it" strategy relies on negative reinforcement and learned helplessness and I don't recommend it.Successful harness training requires sensitivity to a bird's body language and a good positive reinforcement training strategy. When a behavior is particularly challenging, such as harness training, it is important to use a training process known as shaping with approximations. This entails breaking the training down into small steps or approximations that are easier for the bird to learn. Eventually all those steps together lead to the final goal behavior of wearing the harness. If your bird shows any discomfort, you go back to a stage in training where the bird is comfortable and try the next step again.
One challenge which can be found with harness training is the potential to scare the bird if the harness is not fully secured. Once you get one of the snaps snapped, the bird is only wearing the harness partially. It is important the bird does not fly away with the harness dangling around him. This could cause the bird to be frightened of the harness in the future.
Each harness training session lasted only about 5 minutes and always ended with the 'jackpot.' (A nice treat )
Flying in the harness
Once your bird is successfully harness trained, your work should be done. (Remember, your bird already should be trained to stay on your hand and not depend on a harness as a controlling device.) However, if your bird is accustomed to flying freely around your house, or is trained to stay but accidentally frightened into flying off your hand while harnessed, here are a couple of tips for a safe landing. Let the tether reel out a bit so he’s not jerked to a stop. Gentle resistance on the line will slowly bring him down. If the bird is heading toward a specific perch, you can let him land, then call him back to your hand.
Some owners train their harnessed birds to fly outdoors or in large indoor areas. This can be done, but it requires that the bird be a very good flyer and trained to return on cue.
Also, managing the line is a bit of an art form. If you manage the tether well, your bird should not notice its presence or get tangled with other objects. Be very careful or you can put your bird in a dangerous situation, such as dangling from a tree branch.
Purchasing a harness
There are a number of commercially available harnesses for parrots on the market today and you will need to buy the correct size for your African Grey.
As with any behavior involving flighted birds, it is important to consider the risks of taking your bird outdoors. Give your bird plenty of opportunities to wear the harness inside the house to ensure you have the right fit before taking him outside. Fully educate yourself about outdoor risks, such as dogs, fumes from cars and exposure to the elements. Set yourself up for success by focusing on preventing problems. Choose safe locations and conditions for your harnessed bird.
Harness training when done with positive reinforcement and safety in mind can be a pleasant experience. It can allow your pet bird – whether he is flighted or clipped - the opportunity to experience a more enriched life.
First, you need to look at the reasons why you want to use one. A properly used harness is a last-resort safety device worn to prevent an unexpected attempt to flee. A harness should not be a method of control. In fact, a bird should hardly be aware of its presence. Unfortunately, more often than not we see harnessed birds that are tugging at the end of the line or being pulled by their owners in different directions.
This it not the right way to use a harness. Although few people are willing to invest the time required, dogs, cats and even ferrets can be trained to walk comfortably by your side. Your bird should be trained to remain in your proximity, too. Rather than pulling on a harness line to control him, you should train him to stay put using positive reinforcement.But, there are times when we bird owners cannot predict when something is going to frighten our birds. This is when a harness earns its keep as a backup safety device.
We think of harnessed birds as ones that can fly. Clipping flight feathers has long been a common practice among bird owners. However, a trend is to allow birds to fledge and remain flighted for their entire lives. For some birds this can help prevent feather picking. (These birds seem to find the ends of the clipped feathers irritating.) Other birds seem more confident as a result of being allowed to fly. In general, flying can improve a bird's health by keeping it active and physically fit.
Clipped birds taken outdoors or other places can benefit from harnesses, too. It takes only a second for a clipped bird to startle and flutter off a hand or shoulder and into the path of an oncoming car or some other danger.
Whether your bird is fully flighted or clipped, it's natural to want a safe way to expose him to sun and fresh air, not to mention new people and places. Harnesses give birds an opportunity to engage in many types of experiences while at the same time reducing the risk.
Is your bird a harness candidate?
Pictures of birds happily wearing their harnesses makes it look so easy. But harnessing a bird is not as simple as it looks. First, you should ask yourself if your bird is a good candidate for harness training in the first place. Not all birds are.
Not surprisingly, the best candidates are birds that are comfortable with being touched all over. Young parrots that may have recently been weaned, the larger cockatoos and some macaws tend to be more open than other types of birds to touching beyond the head scratch.
If your bird does not fit into any of these categories, it does not mean he can't be trained to wear a harness. It does mean you probably will have to invest more time and patience into training him. For some people, it's just not worth the effort.
Many times people manage to harness their bird a few times, then the bird learns to detest the harness and either flees or displays aggressive behavior at the first sight of it. If this has happened to you, it probably means you weren't paying attention to your bird's signs of discomfort; you simply strapped him in the harness and expected him to get used to it.
Most birds don't respond very well to this training method. They bite at the harness, try to escape it or even squawk. The end result is a bird that fears the harness.
Even if your bird eventually learns to tolerate the harness, this "get-used-to-it" strategy relies on negative reinforcement and learned helplessness and I don't recommend it.Successful harness training requires sensitivity to a bird's body language and a good positive reinforcement training strategy. When a behavior is particularly challenging, such as harness training, it is important to use a training process known as shaping with approximations. This entails breaking the training down into small steps or approximations that are easier for the bird to learn. Eventually all those steps together lead to the final goal behavior of wearing the harness. If your bird shows any discomfort, you go back to a stage in training where the bird is comfortable and try the next step again.
One challenge which can be found with harness training is the potential to scare the bird if the harness is not fully secured. Once you get one of the snaps snapped, the bird is only wearing the harness partially. It is important the bird does not fly away with the harness dangling around him. This could cause the bird to be frightened of the harness in the future.
Each harness training session lasted only about 5 minutes and always ended with the 'jackpot.' (A nice treat )
Flying in the harness
Once your bird is successfully harness trained, your work should be done. (Remember, your bird already should be trained to stay on your hand and not depend on a harness as a controlling device.) However, if your bird is accustomed to flying freely around your house, or is trained to stay but accidentally frightened into flying off your hand while harnessed, here are a couple of tips for a safe landing. Let the tether reel out a bit so he’s not jerked to a stop. Gentle resistance on the line will slowly bring him down. If the bird is heading toward a specific perch, you can let him land, then call him back to your hand.
Some owners train their harnessed birds to fly outdoors or in large indoor areas. This can be done, but it requires that the bird be a very good flyer and trained to return on cue.
Also, managing the line is a bit of an art form. If you manage the tether well, your bird should not notice its presence or get tangled with other objects. Be very careful or you can put your bird in a dangerous situation, such as dangling from a tree branch.
Purchasing a harness
There are a number of commercially available harnesses for parrots on the market today and you will need to buy the correct size for your African Grey.
As with any behavior involving flighted birds, it is important to consider the risks of taking your bird outdoors. Give your bird plenty of opportunities to wear the harness inside the house to ensure you have the right fit before taking him outside. Fully educate yourself about outdoor risks, such as dogs, fumes from cars and exposure to the elements. Set yourself up for success by focusing on preventing problems. Choose safe locations and conditions for your harnessed bird.
Harness training when done with positive reinforcement and safety in mind can be a pleasant experience. It can allow your pet bird – whether he is flighted or clipped - the opportunity to experience a more enriched life.