TRAINING AFRICAN GREY'S
Training pet parrots has benefits that extend well beyond the entertainment value of a parrot that can talk and do tricks. Training will strengthen the bond you have with your parrot, who will look forward to the one-on-one attention involved in training sessions, especially when success means lots of praise and attention along with favorite treats. In addition, teaching some simple commands will make handling your parrot easier. Keep it Positive The key to training your parrot is to keep the interaction positive.
Three concepts provide the Basis for parrot training:
Never punish your parrot !
Obviously, this is a bit simplistic, but your goal is to shape your bird's behavior into what you want by a giving a reward for good things and ignoring (no reward, no reaction) for bad things. The reward can be a favorite food treat, but simple praise or a play session with a treasured toy can be good motivation for some birds. If your bird is doing something undesirable, you must simply ignore the bird (your bird will not respond to punishment). A negative reaction can turn into a reward if your bird is looking for attention (negative attention is better than no attention), so you must be careful not to unintentionally cause some undesirable behaviors to increase due to your reaction. Ignoring behavior might first cause it to intensify, but eventually the undesirable behavior will most likely stop.
How you approach training can help keep training positive:
Train only when you are relaxed. Positive training does take patience!Pick a time when your bird is attentive and not distracted by eating, preening, or household activity.Frequent, but short, training sessions are generally more effective. A few minutes at a time, several times a day, works well.Pick a favorite reward (but don't overdo it if it is food).Once your bird catches on to something, don't give a treat every time (switch to praise part of the time) or your bird may only do the behavior if he/she knows you have a treat handy.
End each session on a positive note. Wait for a successful attempt or at least a good try at whatever you are training, give a treat, and move on to something else.Keep training sessions upbeat and fun for your bird.
Very Basic Training: Step Up and Step Down :
f you had to choose only two things to teach your parrot, these would be then ones to pick. This means training your parrot to step up onto your finger or wrist (or hand-held perch) on command, and then step back off again. These are relatively easy and extremely important skills to teach. Stepping up is quite a natural movement for a bird so it is generally easy to train this on command (stepping down is a bit trickier to teach). Getting your bird to step up and step down on command makes handling much easier and helps you to set some boundaries for your bird (for example, you can more easily remove your bird from areas of you home that are not bird-proofed, return a bird back to his or her playgym or cage, etc.). If you have a baby bird, he or she is probably pretty cooperative but starting early with the step up and step down commands is still a good idea. Not only does training a cooperative baby allows you to give lots of positive reinforcement, it sets a good foundation for training more skills to your bird in the future.
Three concepts provide the Basis for parrot training:
- Parrot does something good --> give a reward
- Parrot does something undesirable --> ignore it
Never punish your parrot !
Obviously, this is a bit simplistic, but your goal is to shape your bird's behavior into what you want by a giving a reward for good things and ignoring (no reward, no reaction) for bad things. The reward can be a favorite food treat, but simple praise or a play session with a treasured toy can be good motivation for some birds. If your bird is doing something undesirable, you must simply ignore the bird (your bird will not respond to punishment). A negative reaction can turn into a reward if your bird is looking for attention (negative attention is better than no attention), so you must be careful not to unintentionally cause some undesirable behaviors to increase due to your reaction. Ignoring behavior might first cause it to intensify, but eventually the undesirable behavior will most likely stop.
How you approach training can help keep training positive:
Train only when you are relaxed. Positive training does take patience!Pick a time when your bird is attentive and not distracted by eating, preening, or household activity.Frequent, but short, training sessions are generally more effective. A few minutes at a time, several times a day, works well.Pick a favorite reward (but don't overdo it if it is food).Once your bird catches on to something, don't give a treat every time (switch to praise part of the time) or your bird may only do the behavior if he/she knows you have a treat handy.
End each session on a positive note. Wait for a successful attempt or at least a good try at whatever you are training, give a treat, and move on to something else.Keep training sessions upbeat and fun for your bird.
Very Basic Training: Step Up and Step Down :
f you had to choose only two things to teach your parrot, these would be then ones to pick. This means training your parrot to step up onto your finger or wrist (or hand-held perch) on command, and then step back off again. These are relatively easy and extremely important skills to teach. Stepping up is quite a natural movement for a bird so it is generally easy to train this on command (stepping down is a bit trickier to teach). Getting your bird to step up and step down on command makes handling much easier and helps you to set some boundaries for your bird (for example, you can more easily remove your bird from areas of you home that are not bird-proofed, return a bird back to his or her playgym or cage, etc.). If you have a baby bird, he or she is probably pretty cooperative but starting early with the step up and step down commands is still a good idea. Not only does training a cooperative baby allows you to give lots of positive reinforcement, it sets a good foundation for training more skills to your bird in the future.
PETTING YOUR PARROT
When your parrot is tame it will step up on your hand and cuddle with you from time to time. As time goes by you may begin to notice your feathered companion fluffing its neck feathers and bowing its head down. When this happens your parrot is requesting a loving pet or scratch from you. This is a wonderful display of affection that does not come easily for some.Some parrots are hesitant toward human touch were others are willing participants. Most parrots favor their feathers begin touched in a cross motion or against the direction they grow. Generally a parrot does not like to be petted with direction of the growth. While touching and petting your bird be sure to avoid the skin, touching of the skin can create irritation of that area. If your parrot likes the feeling of its skin begin caressed be sure to move from place to place.
With that being said, there is a time when you will notice your parrot likes to be touched in the direction of its feather growth. This is during the molting period. It is extremely important to be aware of blood feathers and pinfeathers. Remember, these feathers contain a blood supply and are very sensitive. However, take the time to assure your parrot is enjoying being touch; you may realize it is simply just tolerating your contact and you should cease from petting at that time.
For the most part, parrots prefer these areas to be petted and stroked:
Gently pulling at the feathers provides a satisfying sensation for your parrot. During this process, take a soft hold of the feather near the shaft and slide your fingers upward in the direction of the tip of the feather. This gently pulling and sliding of your fingers may assist with new blood feathers.
Either way, your parrot will display obvious signs of pleasure if he is enjoying your petting session. He will fluff his feathers where he is receiving the touch and lean in toward your hand. Your bird may even shut its eye and coo; your parrot will remain still for the most part but may shift from time to time in order to move to another desired area for petting.Once you are finished petting your parrot, it will display signs of appreciation and happiness.
These signs may include:
With that being said, there is a time when you will notice your parrot likes to be touched in the direction of its feather growth. This is during the molting period. It is extremely important to be aware of blood feathers and pinfeathers. Remember, these feathers contain a blood supply and are very sensitive. However, take the time to assure your parrot is enjoying being touch; you may realize it is simply just tolerating your contact and you should cease from petting at that time.
For the most part, parrots prefer these areas to be petted and stroked:
- Ears
- Eye Rings
- Beak and Under
- Wing pit
- Cheeks
- Under and on top of tail
- Neck (A favorite of many!)
- Nostrils
- Jaw (some birds will yawn)
- Underside of wings (Ridges)
Gently pulling at the feathers provides a satisfying sensation for your parrot. During this process, take a soft hold of the feather near the shaft and slide your fingers upward in the direction of the tip of the feather. This gently pulling and sliding of your fingers may assist with new blood feathers.
Either way, your parrot will display obvious signs of pleasure if he is enjoying your petting session. He will fluff his feathers where he is receiving the touch and lean in toward your hand. Your bird may even shut its eye and coo; your parrot will remain still for the most part but may shift from time to time in order to move to another desired area for petting.Once you are finished petting your parrot, it will display signs of appreciation and happiness.
These signs may include:
- Shaking off or out feathers
- Stretching wings
- Fluffing feathers
- Tail wagging
- Or appearing as if in a trance
DEALING WITH PARROT OVERBONDING
Everyone knows that parrots bond to their owner or someone in the household. Some parrots may bond to more than one person, but for the most part, they choose one owner and bond with them specifically. This is a completely normal thing. However, there are some cases when the parrot can become so completely bonded to one owner that they actually exhibit aggressive tendencies toward other people in the house. This type of behavior is called over bonding.
When over bonding happens, then there are many behavioral problems that may come along with it. You will need to make use of methods to avoid over bonding and if it occurs, you will need methods for correcting the problem. Correcting over bonding does not come along with just one course of action. You may need to try a few different methods until you find a corrective method that will work without causing your bird to become even more aggressive. Here are a few things that you can try if you suspect that your parrot is over bonding.
Correcting Your Parrot from Over Bonding:
*Never react positively to your parrot’s aggressive behavior even if it seems cute. No matter what, if the bird attacks anyone, it should immediately be returned to its cage for some time to calm down. It will soon recognize that the aggressive behavior causes its return to the cage.
*Do not let the bonded human be the only one to give the parrot treats. Instead, if there is someone that is particularly out of favor with the bird, allow that person to give treats to the parrot. In fact, this should be a regular thing that everyone in the household should offer treats and provide food for the bird.
*Under no circumstances should anyone but the bonded person do anything that the parrot may deem unpleasant. This would include bathing and grooming or even simply putting the bird back in its cage. If you are the bonded person, then you should always be the one to take care of these tasks so that the parrot does not associate further negative things with the un-bonded humans.
*Try having other people get the bird out of its cage. Parrots love to be out of their cage, and they will have to make concessions to get out of their cage. Then, you should have someone not bonded to the bird offer their hand. They should do so in a slow and unaggressive manner so that the bird will not feel threatened. Eventually, the bird will recognize that it will get the chance to be out of its cage only if it steps up on someone else’s hand.
It is a fact that parrots usually bond to one human. It should not be a fact that the bird is so over bonded to one human that it acts aggressive towards others. If your parrot has been exhibiting over bonding behavior, you can take steps to deal with the situation. Keep in mind that it will take time and patience, but the problem can be corrected.
When over bonding happens, then there are many behavioral problems that may come along with it. You will need to make use of methods to avoid over bonding and if it occurs, you will need methods for correcting the problem. Correcting over bonding does not come along with just one course of action. You may need to try a few different methods until you find a corrective method that will work without causing your bird to become even more aggressive. Here are a few things that you can try if you suspect that your parrot is over bonding.
Correcting Your Parrot from Over Bonding:
*Never react positively to your parrot’s aggressive behavior even if it seems cute. No matter what, if the bird attacks anyone, it should immediately be returned to its cage for some time to calm down. It will soon recognize that the aggressive behavior causes its return to the cage.
*Do not let the bonded human be the only one to give the parrot treats. Instead, if there is someone that is particularly out of favor with the bird, allow that person to give treats to the parrot. In fact, this should be a regular thing that everyone in the household should offer treats and provide food for the bird.
*Under no circumstances should anyone but the bonded person do anything that the parrot may deem unpleasant. This would include bathing and grooming or even simply putting the bird back in its cage. If you are the bonded person, then you should always be the one to take care of these tasks so that the parrot does not associate further negative things with the un-bonded humans.
*Try having other people get the bird out of its cage. Parrots love to be out of their cage, and they will have to make concessions to get out of their cage. Then, you should have someone not bonded to the bird offer their hand. They should do so in a slow and unaggressive manner so that the bird will not feel threatened. Eventually, the bird will recognize that it will get the chance to be out of its cage only if it steps up on someone else’s hand.
It is a fact that parrots usually bond to one human. It should not be a fact that the bird is so over bonded to one human that it acts aggressive towards others. If your parrot has been exhibiting over bonding behavior, you can take steps to deal with the situation. Keep in mind that it will take time and patience, but the problem can be corrected.
Teaching Your Parrot to Talk
If there were one thing that we could all say about why we love parrots, it would most likely be their ability to talk. There is something so delightful about talking to the bird and then hearing it talk back. Of course, there are thousands of other reasons to love the loyal, inquisitive and fun birds, but talking is most likely the thing almost anyone would say theylove about their parrots.
The problem with new parrot owners is that they do not know how to teach their parrot to talk. They expect the bird to learn it all on its own. Then, when the parrot does not begin to talk, they become frustrated. If you are a new bird owner, then remember that you can teach your parrot to talk without frustration if you take the right approach to it.
Expectations While Teaching Your Parrot:
The first thing to remember is that you can never be too patient. There is no one certain time when the bird will learn its first word, and if you do not have the patience to allow it to happen when it does, you will get frustrated and irritated. Once you have established that you will need to be patient, you can move on to some proactive approaches that will help teach your parrot to talk.
Remember your parrot’s age. These birds generally talk when they are about a year old. However, this is not set in stone. Some parrots begin talking as early as ten months and some do not speak a word until they are over fourteen months old. Do not expect for your parrot to just magically start speaking on its first birthday.
There are two things you need to keep in mind when you are teaching your parrots to talk: interaction and repetition. If you remember these two things, you will find that your parrot will begin talking in no time. Here is how to put those two words into practice.
When it comes to interaction, keep in mind that your parrot will respond more when you talk directly to it, pay attention to it and even look in its eyes. If you want to teach your bird to say good night, then only say these words when you are about to go to bed. Your parrot is able to pick up on how certain words cause certain interactions. They will learn quicker in this manner. Whenever you want the parrot to learn certain phrases, say what you want it to learn to say and then complete the interaction. This is why it is so easy to teach a parrot to ask for food.
Next, remember that repetition is key. You cannot say the phrase once and expect the bird to automatically repeat. Instead, you have to be repetitive. Continue to say the same phrases but do not say them over and over in one sitting or you could stress yourself and the bird out.
Teaching a parrot to talk can be a fun experience that creates a stronger bond between you and your bird. Remember that if you keep the above things in mind, you can teach your bird without frustration.
The problem with new parrot owners is that they do not know how to teach their parrot to talk. They expect the bird to learn it all on its own. Then, when the parrot does not begin to talk, they become frustrated. If you are a new bird owner, then remember that you can teach your parrot to talk without frustration if you take the right approach to it.
Expectations While Teaching Your Parrot:
The first thing to remember is that you can never be too patient. There is no one certain time when the bird will learn its first word, and if you do not have the patience to allow it to happen when it does, you will get frustrated and irritated. Once you have established that you will need to be patient, you can move on to some proactive approaches that will help teach your parrot to talk.
Remember your parrot’s age. These birds generally talk when they are about a year old. However, this is not set in stone. Some parrots begin talking as early as ten months and some do not speak a word until they are over fourteen months old. Do not expect for your parrot to just magically start speaking on its first birthday.
There are two things you need to keep in mind when you are teaching your parrots to talk: interaction and repetition. If you remember these two things, you will find that your parrot will begin talking in no time. Here is how to put those two words into practice.
When it comes to interaction, keep in mind that your parrot will respond more when you talk directly to it, pay attention to it and even look in its eyes. If you want to teach your bird to say good night, then only say these words when you are about to go to bed. Your parrot is able to pick up on how certain words cause certain interactions. They will learn quicker in this manner. Whenever you want the parrot to learn certain phrases, say what you want it to learn to say and then complete the interaction. This is why it is so easy to teach a parrot to ask for food.
Next, remember that repetition is key. You cannot say the phrase once and expect the bird to automatically repeat. Instead, you have to be repetitive. Continue to say the same phrases but do not say them over and over in one sitting or you could stress yourself and the bird out.
Teaching a parrot to talk can be a fun experience that creates a stronger bond between you and your bird. Remember that if you keep the above things in mind, you can teach your bird without frustration.
POTTY TRAINING
Although potty training can be a great way to avoid some of the mess I would recommend that you always use the birds cage as a place to "poop" as it will feel free to do so while in the cage as it concerns me that birds that have been left in their cages at night or maybe while you are not home, may be inclined to hold their droppings in to avoid pooping in the wrong place and this could cause a range of health problems for your bird, so please consider this when deciding to train!
How to Potty Train your bird ?
Ah, bird poop... it's one of those necessary evils of bird ownership that we must learn to live with. The good news is that although many claim that there is no way to "housebreak" or "potty train" a bird, there are in fact ways to teach your pet the proper places to relieve himself. While it won't happen overnight, and can be a bit more complicated than teaching a cat or dog, many owners find that the benefits of such training are well worth the effort.
The first step in potty training your bird is to train yourself. Each day when you interact with your pet, pay close attention to any "signals" the bird may give you before relieving himself. These can be as subtle as a change in posture, a certain "look" in the bird's eyes, or a ruffling of tailfeathers. Every bird is different, and will thus use different body language, but if you know your bird and learn to "read" him, it won't take you long to catch on.
Another thing to pay attention to is the frequency of your bird's droppings. Many birds will use the bathroom as often as every 5 or 10 minutes, but again, this is highly individual. If you watch your bird, you may begin to see a pattern in his restroom habits, and if you take note of the amount of time he or she takes between poops, you will be better at judging when your bird is ready for a potty break.
Once you've gotten a good idea of your bird's natural bathroom schedule, you can begin to work with your bird on learning the right places to go potty. The first thing to do is decide where you want your bird to relieve himself. This can be any number of places, such as the bird's cage, a garbage can, or a piece of newspaper or cage liner. Whatever you decide on, it's important to stick with it as much as possible. Many bird owners train their pets to potty on a piece of waste paper, as this is the most portable and easily disposed of.
When you've chosen the proper place, the only thing you must do is take your bird to it (or if it's a piece of paper, hold it under the bird) when it's time to go potty -- sounds simple, right? The trick is anticipating the bird's need to use the bathroom, which is where knowing your bird's potty habits comes into play. If, for example, you noticed that your bird relieves himself about every 7 minutes, then you should place your bird over his designated poop space every 7 minutes. There may be times when your bird does not need to poop as often as normal, and that's okay -- if you notice that your bird hasn't pooped after being held over the potty space for a minute or two, let him resume playing, and just try again after 1-3 minutes have passed.
When your bird uses the bathroom in the correct area, be sure to praise him with kind words and tasty treats. As time passes, he will begin to understand that pooping in the right place yields great rewards! This can take many months of training, however, so don't be surprised if your bird has a few accidents, and don't be angry with your pet if he "misses the spot". Remember, it's your responsibility to pay attention to your bird's body language and schedule, and get the bird to the proper place to go potty.
With persistence and plenty of positive reinforcement, many birds take to potty training quite readily, and quickly learn that pooping on humans (or furniture) is not encouraged. While it does require effort on the part of the owner to make sure that accidents don't occur, most claim that it's much easier than tending to the laundry and messes that un-trained birds create. Have fun with your bird and make potty training a learning experience for both of you -- and never again worry about losing your favorite shirt to a "bird bomb"! — with Laura White.
How to Potty Train your bird ?
Ah, bird poop... it's one of those necessary evils of bird ownership that we must learn to live with. The good news is that although many claim that there is no way to "housebreak" or "potty train" a bird, there are in fact ways to teach your pet the proper places to relieve himself. While it won't happen overnight, and can be a bit more complicated than teaching a cat or dog, many owners find that the benefits of such training are well worth the effort.
The first step in potty training your bird is to train yourself. Each day when you interact with your pet, pay close attention to any "signals" the bird may give you before relieving himself. These can be as subtle as a change in posture, a certain "look" in the bird's eyes, or a ruffling of tailfeathers. Every bird is different, and will thus use different body language, but if you know your bird and learn to "read" him, it won't take you long to catch on.
Another thing to pay attention to is the frequency of your bird's droppings. Many birds will use the bathroom as often as every 5 or 10 minutes, but again, this is highly individual. If you watch your bird, you may begin to see a pattern in his restroom habits, and if you take note of the amount of time he or she takes between poops, you will be better at judging when your bird is ready for a potty break.
Once you've gotten a good idea of your bird's natural bathroom schedule, you can begin to work with your bird on learning the right places to go potty. The first thing to do is decide where you want your bird to relieve himself. This can be any number of places, such as the bird's cage, a garbage can, or a piece of newspaper or cage liner. Whatever you decide on, it's important to stick with it as much as possible. Many bird owners train their pets to potty on a piece of waste paper, as this is the most portable and easily disposed of.
When you've chosen the proper place, the only thing you must do is take your bird to it (or if it's a piece of paper, hold it under the bird) when it's time to go potty -- sounds simple, right? The trick is anticipating the bird's need to use the bathroom, which is where knowing your bird's potty habits comes into play. If, for example, you noticed that your bird relieves himself about every 7 minutes, then you should place your bird over his designated poop space every 7 minutes. There may be times when your bird does not need to poop as often as normal, and that's okay -- if you notice that your bird hasn't pooped after being held over the potty space for a minute or two, let him resume playing, and just try again after 1-3 minutes have passed.
When your bird uses the bathroom in the correct area, be sure to praise him with kind words and tasty treats. As time passes, he will begin to understand that pooping in the right place yields great rewards! This can take many months of training, however, so don't be surprised if your bird has a few accidents, and don't be angry with your pet if he "misses the spot". Remember, it's your responsibility to pay attention to your bird's body language and schedule, and get the bird to the proper place to go potty.
With persistence and plenty of positive reinforcement, many birds take to potty training quite readily, and quickly learn that pooping on humans (or furniture) is not encouraged. While it does require effort on the part of the owner to make sure that accidents don't occur, most claim that it's much easier than tending to the laundry and messes that un-trained birds create. Have fun with your bird and make potty training a learning experience for both of you -- and never again worry about losing your favorite shirt to a "bird bomb"! — with Laura White.
POTTY TRAINING
Toilet Training a Parrot:
As a pet owner, whether we own a dog, cat or bird we all have one thing in common. That common relation is pet waste. Cleaning up after our pets can be a tiring task. Dog and cat owners have an advantage over parrot owners. Dog and cats have designated areas to eliminate making cleaning up easier. On the other hand, birds eliminate whenever they feel like it.
However, did you know a parrot can be potty trained? Yes, your feathered friend can be trained to deposit their droppings in a designated area too. If you are one of the lucky owners, you may notice your feathered friend has trained itself, choosing to defecate only when in its cage or on its t-stand. This is quit the advantage when taking your parrot out and about or when out of its cage.
If your parrot has not trained itself, do not be discouraged, there is still hope. Toilet training a companion bird does take some time and patience but it is possible. There are two methods of training a parrot to “go potty” – in a designated area or on command. Although it is possible to train your parrot to go on command, it is equally as rewarding getting your bird to eliminate in a contained area when nature calls. You should choose only one method when toilet training and to be consistent; this will keep your pet bird from becoming confused and possibly ruin the training process.
In order to achieve the task at hand there are a few things to consider:
Designate an Area: Choose an area that your parrot will be able and allowed to eliminate. This may be a t-stand, cage, play gym or a room that has an easy to clean floor. There are even devices or perches that can be bought to fit over a toilet bowl. Pick one place and stick with that location.
Recognize Your Parrot’s Signs: You will need to observe your parrot’s body language and recognize the signals it displays when elimination is about to take place. Some birds will lift their tail feathers, others will fluff their feathers or become very still. It is up to you as the owner to become familiar with the signs and move your feathered friend to the desired area.
Choose a Word or Command: Although we are not referring to “going on command”, it is still necessary to choose a word that your parrot can associate eliminating waste with. Use the same word each time. Be enthusiastic when elimination takes place in the area that is desired. As silly as this sounds, remember positive reinforcement is the best way to achieve a desired behavior when training a parrot.
With that being said, remember accidents do happen! You should never punish your parrot if an accident occurs, positive reinforcement along with time and practice are the major keys when toilet training your feathered friend. Simply, ignore the mistakes and focus on the positive accomplishments. Soon your parrot will master this duty.
As a pet owner, whether we own a dog, cat or bird we all have one thing in common. That common relation is pet waste. Cleaning up after our pets can be a tiring task. Dog and cat owners have an advantage over parrot owners. Dog and cats have designated areas to eliminate making cleaning up easier. On the other hand, birds eliminate whenever they feel like it.
However, did you know a parrot can be potty trained? Yes, your feathered friend can be trained to deposit their droppings in a designated area too. If you are one of the lucky owners, you may notice your feathered friend has trained itself, choosing to defecate only when in its cage or on its t-stand. This is quit the advantage when taking your parrot out and about or when out of its cage.
If your parrot has not trained itself, do not be discouraged, there is still hope. Toilet training a companion bird does take some time and patience but it is possible. There are two methods of training a parrot to “go potty” – in a designated area or on command. Although it is possible to train your parrot to go on command, it is equally as rewarding getting your bird to eliminate in a contained area when nature calls. You should choose only one method when toilet training and to be consistent; this will keep your pet bird from becoming confused and possibly ruin the training process.
In order to achieve the task at hand there are a few things to consider:
Designate an Area: Choose an area that your parrot will be able and allowed to eliminate. This may be a t-stand, cage, play gym or a room that has an easy to clean floor. There are even devices or perches that can be bought to fit over a toilet bowl. Pick one place and stick with that location.
Recognize Your Parrot’s Signs: You will need to observe your parrot’s body language and recognize the signals it displays when elimination is about to take place. Some birds will lift their tail feathers, others will fluff their feathers or become very still. It is up to you as the owner to become familiar with the signs and move your feathered friend to the desired area.
Choose a Word or Command: Although we are not referring to “going on command”, it is still necessary to choose a word that your parrot can associate eliminating waste with. Use the same word each time. Be enthusiastic when elimination takes place in the area that is desired. As silly as this sounds, remember positive reinforcement is the best way to achieve a desired behavior when training a parrot.
With that being said, remember accidents do happen! You should never punish your parrot if an accident occurs, positive reinforcement along with time and practice are the major keys when toilet training your feathered friend. Simply, ignore the mistakes and focus on the positive accomplishments. Soon your parrot will master this duty.
HOW DO I GET MY BIRD TO STEP UP?
Practice in short, frequent sessions.
Use lots of positive reinforcement; never hit or scream at your bird.
Always end your training session on a positive note -- if your bird is struggling wait for a successful try, reward your bird lavishly, and move on to something else.
Once your bird has some practice, have all members of the family practice "step up" with your bird.
Once your bird has mastered the step up skill, practicing the step up in a relaxed and fun way is an excellent way to give lots of positive attention to your bird.
Teaching your Bird to Step Up:
Choose the command you will use. It doesn’t matter what word or phrase you use, but you must be consistent. Many owners just use “step up” or “up,” but you might prefer “come here,” “let’s go,” or something else.If your bird is not receptive, start training in a room out of sight of your bird’s cage. Less familiar surroundings are likely to improve cooperation.
Pick a relaxed time with no distractions – a bird that is preening or eating is not going to be very receptive to training.
Hold your finger (or wrist or handheld perch, whichever you are using) in front of the bird, level with the bird’s abdomen directly above the feet. Make sure you are close enough that it will be an easy step for your bird.Give the step up command.When your bird steps up, give him or her lots of praise (if your bird is reluctant, see the tips below). At the beginning, you can offer a favorite treat, but as your bird gets better at stepping up, decrease the frequency of treats so that eventually your bird will happily step up just for your praise.You can try repeating with the other hand, and many birds will keep on going finger to finger.Always end a training session on a positive note. If things aren’t going well, try to get one good success, give lots of praise, then stop for that session.Once your bird is doing well, you can move closer to the cage, eventually training the bird to step up from the top of the cage and then from inside the cage.
Potential Problems:
Biting: your bird may put his/her beak on your finger, so don’t be startled. Birds naturally check the stability of new perches by testing them with their beaks and if you don’t allow this they may not be willing to step onto your finger. If your bird does bite, though, don’t shout or pull back; in a firm, deep voice say “no” and push your finger toward your bird. If your bird persists in trying to bite, use a hand held perch at first (don’t use gloves).
Not Stepping Up: if your bird is reluctant to step up, be patient at first as your bird may just be very unsure if you are a safe perch. After a while, very gently nudging the birds abdomen with your finger (or the handheld perch) may help get the bird to make that first step.
Running for Your Shoulder: try not to let you bird run up your arm once he or she has stepped onto your hand. If your bird does this, block him/her but putting your free hand in the way, and give the step up command again to get the bird onto your hand instead. Repeat as necessary, and if your bird is persistent, end the session with a good step up and try again later.
Use lots of positive reinforcement; never hit or scream at your bird.
Always end your training session on a positive note -- if your bird is struggling wait for a successful try, reward your bird lavishly, and move on to something else.
Once your bird has some practice, have all members of the family practice "step up" with your bird.
Once your bird has mastered the step up skill, practicing the step up in a relaxed and fun way is an excellent way to give lots of positive attention to your bird.
Teaching your Bird to Step Up:
Choose the command you will use. It doesn’t matter what word or phrase you use, but you must be consistent. Many owners just use “step up” or “up,” but you might prefer “come here,” “let’s go,” or something else.If your bird is not receptive, start training in a room out of sight of your bird’s cage. Less familiar surroundings are likely to improve cooperation.
Pick a relaxed time with no distractions – a bird that is preening or eating is not going to be very receptive to training.
Hold your finger (or wrist or handheld perch, whichever you are using) in front of the bird, level with the bird’s abdomen directly above the feet. Make sure you are close enough that it will be an easy step for your bird.Give the step up command.When your bird steps up, give him or her lots of praise (if your bird is reluctant, see the tips below). At the beginning, you can offer a favorite treat, but as your bird gets better at stepping up, decrease the frequency of treats so that eventually your bird will happily step up just for your praise.You can try repeating with the other hand, and many birds will keep on going finger to finger.Always end a training session on a positive note. If things aren’t going well, try to get one good success, give lots of praise, then stop for that session.Once your bird is doing well, you can move closer to the cage, eventually training the bird to step up from the top of the cage and then from inside the cage.
Potential Problems:
Biting: your bird may put his/her beak on your finger, so don’t be startled. Birds naturally check the stability of new perches by testing them with their beaks and if you don’t allow this they may not be willing to step onto your finger. If your bird does bite, though, don’t shout or pull back; in a firm, deep voice say “no” and push your finger toward your bird. If your bird persists in trying to bite, use a hand held perch at first (don’t use gloves).
Not Stepping Up: if your bird is reluctant to step up, be patient at first as your bird may just be very unsure if you are a safe perch. After a while, very gently nudging the birds abdomen with your finger (or the handheld perch) may help get the bird to make that first step.
Running for Your Shoulder: try not to let you bird run up your arm once he or she has stepped onto your hand. If your bird does this, block him/her but putting your free hand in the way, and give the step up command again to get the bird onto your hand instead. Repeat as necessary, and if your bird is persistent, end the session with a good step up and try again later.
HEIGHT DOMINANCE
"HEIGHT DOMINANCE" is a term that has been around for ages. The idea is that a parrot on your shoulder is now at or above your eyes and therefore will try to dominate you. Well, it simply isn't true.
First of all, parrots don't live in dominance-related hierarchies. They live in pairs or family groups, which may or may not congregate in a larger social group in a roost tree or at a feeding site. While a nervous bird will be inclined to climb to the highest point it can, it isn't because it wants to dominate a situation - it simply is seeking safety. For a bird, up is the way to safety and therefore a good place to go to find comfort as well.
First of all, parrots don't live in dominance-related hierarchies. They live in pairs or family groups, which may or may not congregate in a larger social group in a roost tree or at a feeding site. While a nervous bird will be inclined to climb to the highest point it can, it isn't because it wants to dominate a situation - it simply is seeking safety. For a bird, up is the way to safety and therefore a good place to go to find comfort as well.